Haridwar (हरिद्वार) Eco-Friendly Street Food Tour | Malai Samosa + Surja ki Dal + Magic Chaat

Haridwar (हरिद्वार) Eco-Friendly Street Food Tour | Malai Samosa + Surja ki Dal + Magic Chaat

December 3, 2019 100 By Ewald Bahringer


Har Har Gange. Welcome to India’s oldest city Haridwar i.e. ‘Passage to God’ We have Jain Sir with us who is going to take us on a food tour at this place And will familiarize us with some traditional and unique fares. Welcome to Haridwar, Anubhav Ji. Presently we are at Har Ki Pauri At the world famous Bharam Kund. Lord Bhramha had meditated here. And now let’s go to Jwalapur and start with Surja ki Dal. Now we are at Chowk Bazaar, Jwalapur. And will make you taste the world famous Surja Ki Dal. People come here from far off places. And the most important thing is that there is no adulteration in the dal. Though you can make this kind of dal at home but you won’t get it anywhere else in the market Its just plain dal and you will see hoe delicious it is. This is boiled Moong Dal Yes And what is the sour thing that you added. This is tamarind pulp And this is fried red chillies Roasted red chilies.
-Okay roasted So we have two kinds of Dal.
-Yes will taste both. These are the two kinds of dal. One they have mashed And the other one is simply boiled When you taste them both, you will find them different. What is this leaf?
-This is Malu leaves(Bauhinia vahlii) leaves. This is called Maljhan leaves And its common name is Malu An interesting thing about this is that the stalk is eaten by the ants And this part is consumed by the elephants So the stories that you have heard about the elephants and ants their food source in same May be that is how their stories have developed So we have two kinds of dal. One is mashed And the other one is separate Very nice.
-It has the sourness from the lime juice. And it is very nutritious as well as you were tell.
-Yes Can I taste this from here?
-Sure This is more delicious. This is the mashed dal It has lime juice, masala and the roasted chillies is adding little spiciness to this And the tamarind water Is it consumed during the breakfast only in the morning time. No earlier I used to sit in the evening as well. How many years have passed? Since how many years you and your father have been serving it? It has been many years. It started before Independence You weren’t born during that time. I was born in 1965 There are three kinds of dal. One is Khurchan, then ladoo and Khili Hui They are all in the same vessel So even when the halwa sticks to the bottom, it tastes great. And same is with the kheer Same thing is there in the dal also Brother you try this Khurchan Its taste will be different from the previous ones. Its texture is different It has the slight burnt taste of the dal that sticks to the bottom of the vessel So we finally tried the three kinds of dal One is the Khilwas or the separated Moong dal then the mashed one which is called the ladoo And last the one that sticks to the bottom of the pan that is called the Khurchan. we are finally trying it Very yummy taste And Of the three my favourite one is the khurchan Thank you Vijendra Ji Thank You Sir this one here, in the Jwalapur region is the Gitaram Halwai, one of the oldest. We have arrived here after crossing the narrow lanes And here the Rabri, Ghiya Ki Lauj, Burfi and Pede Travels to places.
-So it is a sweet shop. And they have maintained the traditional taste See here they are preparing the stuffs Here they will prepare the Rabri in the traditional way. We have arrived earlier. The first pot of Rabri gets ready here by 11-11.30 am If you need to see the second batch then you have to wait for another two hours This is the Ghiya Ki Lauj.
-okay Lauki ki lauj.
-Yes its the bottle gourd burfi This is our sweets platter. It has milk cake Khoye ki burfi and Lauki ki lauj How old is your shop? Its 115 years old! Which is the oldest sweet in your shop?
-All are old recipes. One item that is nearly 115 yrs old See I am here for the past 60-65 years and these are the only sweets that I have seen. It started with the burfi.
-burfi So the oldest sweet here is the burfi.
-Yes Burfi, Khurchan. Khurchan, boondi ka ladoo, gajar ka halwa All the items sold here can be had during fasting. Absolutely grainy in texture It is grainy and is melting in the mouth Here we tried three sweets ghiye ki lauj, milk cake and khoye burfi One thing that is common to all three of them is the purity of the sweets Milk cake was grainy and it melted in the mouth The lauki ki lauj has a very pleasant Kewra Flavour. The khoye ki burfi has khoya and sugar. That’s it The sugar content is less It is not too sweet So these were the taste of the 115 yrs old sweet shop. Let’s go to our next food stop Thank you Rakesh Ji It was a pleasure meeting you and trying your sweets Sir we are going to Bhagwati Chole Bhandar The most famous thing here is the chole ka panni You can see it here. And when you drink it You will feel so good that you won’t be able to define it. Is this from the soaked channa. It is the water of the boiled channa. It has all the protein in it And when you drink it you will feel heaven like bliss Is the water tempered?
-Yes it is. And when Gaurav ji will serve you on his own, it will be a different joy. So we have tried the Chole kulche, Chole bhature and Chole chawal a lot At Gaurav ji’s shop, Bhagwati Chole Bhandar, we are trying the bun mix which is also called Adda And the bun is dipped in the chole and it is crushed and mixed in the chole and its being cooked This is bun mix that has pieces of bun and they have been thoroughly mixed in the bun And with it there is the chutney made with pomegranate seeds, coriander and spinach chutney. ginger julienne And coriander Here comes a deep fried Bhatura Chole Ka Panni, rich in protein When you were adding the chutney, I thought it would be spicy.
-Very light. Adda.
-We have eaten this a lot during our childhood from his father. This is one of the oldest item
-At this place The bun has completely dissolved in the Chole It gets dissolved even more I have mixed it less The concept is same as the Bheeja Kulcha It is similar concept. You added the bun into the channa and mixed it This channa soup is now available in all cities But it began here by our elders let’s try the chole ka panni It will digest everything that you eat You won’t get this taste anywhere else This is spicy This has the distinct taste of the channa The tempering is a little strong in this I stand here at the counter Its my duty from 5 in the evening The shop timing is 8 am to 9 pm We have increased the shop time since the past 2- 2.5 years And its good that everywhere this leaf is used It is clean and hygienic, speciality and it keeps the food pure. People boil the choles very quickly but ours one takes time. It takes 4-5 hrs It is first boiled and then masalas are added Do you add pomegranate seeds?
-Yes we put it and it is in the masala People add tea leaves to get the colour We don’t add tea leaves for it adds a bitterness to it.
-You have added dried gooseberry It is added while soaking Visiting Bhagwati Chole was in our list Many old customers are visiting still. He is one of them I had come many years back and so I had forgotten the name of this place I just remembered that they feed 9 girls before right before opening the shop Yes I had come many years earlier. They still maintain the same taste If the rickshaw wala doesn’t knows the name Just tell them take us to that shop where girl children are fed at the starting of the day’s business. He is our Rawatji Namaskar He is also an erstwhile reporter Is it? Yes and he has played many interesting characters in the Ramleela So he is like Haridwar’s Basmati rice Like the old grain.
-Right He is one of the foundation stone of Haridwar Here there are many lodges. Yes many old lodges 3-4 of them are very old The one that you see here is Seth Surajmal’s Dharamshala The Shiv temple inside is very popular And similarly you have the Narshing Bhawan They also run a free dispensary This too is an old Dharamshala Dharamsala is the place where people get food, can pray and can stay as well This is kamal gatta This is called the Kamal Gatta And its seeds are taken out and eaten They are sweet. I remember having them a lot during my childhood. Now a days you don’t find them in the cities It is not Kachori but Khasta It is Khasta kachori Really Its very tasty You make this in the morning time only This is the last stock Now milk will come for the making if the sweets In sweets you have…
-Kheer mohan, gulab jamun etc Its a crisp kachori with Urad dal stuffing inside Very delicious This is slightly firm in texture See the taste It is super sweet This is made with cottage cheese It is cooked in sugar syrup The cottage cheese is cooked in sugar syrup The pandas(priests) over here They consume a lo of Bhang And after that they pop in 4-5 pieces We can’t finish one but they finish ten of these And they don’t become fat or anything Are you enjoying it? Haridwar is a enjoyable place To roam in these lanes and speak to the people people here speak so sweetly And they have a golden heart too This is the specialty of Haridwar, the blessing of holy Ganges We have arrived at Haridwar’s Kusha ghat and Gow Ghat So the people who come to Haridwar mainly for devotional rituals to carry out the rites and rituals related to our ancestors They come here to complete any rituals that has been yet incomplete There are priests here They help you with these rituals Tell us how old is this shop? It is ninety years old. Are you a resident of Haridwar. My grandfather had come from Mathura After that it is the 3 rd generation And when my son will join, it will be 4 th generation Do you have a shop at Mathura as well? Do you keep visiting Mathura? This is dry potatoes and pumpkin sabzi this is potato gravy These are the puris Let’s see what is inside the puris It has urad dal stuffing Along with this we have taken the samosas As you were saying it is the Potli samosas It is cashew samosas in the shape of a conch And this is the Chandrakala This is very popular What is the stuffing inside this? It has Chironji and melon seeds It is stuffed with such things and it lasts quite long This is a traditional pre meal platter If you go to any holy place Be it Benaras, Be it Allahabad Or Mathura or Vrindavan, where ever it be In morning time you will surely get puri sabzi There will be a pumpkin sabzi along with this This is inspired from the community food let’s taste it And here too they it is served on the leaves Very delicious This one is a little spicy It is balanced by the sweet pumpkin When you mix the two it is no more spicy Now I will try with the Sitaphal It is sweet And there is a nice flavour of fennel Yes fennel and aesofoetida Infact this sabzi too is cooked in ghee All the sabzis are cooked in ghee the cashews are fried in spices they are fried in desi ghee I have tried it for the first time This is a different thing Cashew samosas cashews fried in the masalas in desi ghee It is rolled into the shape of a bundle and deep fried Its a sweet overdose for me This is a different sweet chandrakala Do we call it Chandrakala because it is shaped like a moon It is like the Balushahi It feels as if we have arrived at home.
-Yes there is peace I have never seen the kanji Vadas in jars. I have seen them in Matkhas Yes people pack these for home It is sour.
-Yes this sourness is from the mustard how long do you ferment this? It is the fifth day for the water and second day for the fried dumplings If you refrigerate this it won’t any more sour Is it a summer or winter dish This is for twelve months At many places they add green chutney over the Kanji vadas Technically green chutney shouldn’t be added to the kanji vada When we go to parties we have to add it under compulsion But the main thing about Kanji Vada is that it should be made from mustard only It should have mustard, salt and little chilies according to the taste If you are making it at home you don’t need to add chilies Very delicious and the pakodas are quite soft.
-These are moong dal pakodas There is one more kind of Kanji when you come to me during winters this kanji will be placed in two vessels that will have beet and purple carrot Its a Punjabi dish, Kanji You crushed the papdis and added the curd on top cumin powder, salt, red chili powder and dry ginger chutney there are two layers I liked the way you folded the leaf The taste of the roasted cumin powder is amazing Many people catch cold due to the curd This is pepper.
-It is a pinch of magic When you add this to the curd its property changes Is it called the Dahi Phulki or what? It is called dahi wale Gol Gappe or dahi patashe We call it Patashe You should eat it at one go. I ate it after a long time And i am realising that why people who come to eat here demand this They demand this more than the chat What all things do you add to the milk badam Almond, Cashew and cardamom It has a flavour of Thandai The best thing is it is not too sweet It is a thick, creamy and refreshing lassi The plain lassi is the ultimate lassi And you need to get that buttery feel at the end. That is the test of the purity This is Mathura wale ka Malai ka asamosa I remember that in lucknow we had the Malai gilori But as uncle is saying this is different That has mishri. this one has no mishri but dry fruits It has mava, raisins, cashews And pistachios Very delicious It tastes like the condensed milk do you remember? there used to be the milk maid in tins A many places they use colour to make chocolate burfi It seems we are having chocolate only A slight ghee is added See it is full of dry fruits thank you uncle. This is Amrak or Star fruit We have the sweet ones but we need the sour ones Is it called the star fruit because it has the shape of a star? kamrakh For sweets, we have Mathura wala’s sweets This is such a healthy thing so nutritious It has a high amount of vitamins We live in Haridwar and we don’t know about it do eat it You haven’t eaten a proper meal since the morning So let me take you to guru ka dhaba for some purely desi food it is sabzi and roti prepared over wood fire stoves This ghee smeared roti that has been baked over the wood fire Papad dal urad and channa dal Aloo vadi and tomatoes this is ridge gourd Ridge gourd with moong dal boondi Raita So from morning till evening we have roamed on the streets and enjoyed the zesty flavours But if you want to eat satvik food then you can come to this Bhojanalay They have three kinds of thalis everything in the special thali is mixed with ghee Purity Its pure and light It is such a food that you can’y comment on It won’t be right to describe and comment on this food For some days you will feel as if you have left behind something one has to come again Give us a glass of milk It reminded me of Mathura and Vrindavan I haven’t put sugar in the milk yet there is a pleasant sweetness in it. On top we have a layer of Malai And in this earthenware it has a different taste So finally our Haridwar Food Tour ends with this. many many thanks to Jain Sir The day was well spent We had started with surja ki dal and we are finally ending with Sevaram ki doodh