Make THIS change for BETTER, BRIGHTER skin!Vitamin C Superstar Products for Melasma, aging and Acne!

Make THIS change for BETTER, BRIGHTER skin!Vitamin C Superstar Products for Melasma, aging and Acne!

January 8, 2020 100 By Ewald Bahringer


Hi guys, welcome back to my channel if you’re new here welcome My name is penny and a certified advanced esthetician in Portland Oregon today I wanted to talk a little bit about vitamin C and more importantly about Some types of vitamin C that are on the market now that I think would be much more beneficial for our aging skin we talked a lot about Ella sorbic acid or a servic acid which are the same thing and We don’t talk about other versions that honestly are probably better. So let’s get into it vitamin C What is vitamin C? It is a potent Antioxidant that you know works against free radicals in our environment that are from everything oxidative stress from smoking the environment clearly the Sun all of those things are stressors on our cells and caused something called oxidation and vitamin C is one of them many of Antioxidants and that helped to mitigate that they helped to kind of absorb and negate those oxidative stresses Okay, guys we’re going to take a quick pause from the video I want to show you a little experiment This is an apple that I just cut up about three and a half hours ago. That’s the core and These three slices were treated with absolutely nothing. They’re just plain slices these three however I actually put one of each of these vitamin C’s just on One half of that apple slice and if you take a close look and I’m hoping that the camera really can pick it up these have oxidized greatly they are very Brown and They’ll just continue to get more and more Brown and on these three. You can really see a distinct brightness Lightness and freshness to the Apple if you get real close Hoping it will really pick it up The edges of the Apple look very fresh and still kind of crisp and you can see on the edges here They’re starting to really brown and degrade you can see that here too. But on the side with the vitamin C They still look pretty good. This one is the Peter Thomas Roth This one is the hydro peptide and this one is the mad hippy now look at that core that is oxidation you guys that is exactly what oxidation is it has caused this Apple to start to brown and degrade and just break down and Compare that core next to the brightness of the Apple that’s been protected with an antioxidant is literally Protecting against that oxidation so that is oxidation I hope that that kind of gives you an idea of what our skin caryn be facing Day to day in the environment and in the Sun and that’s why these products are so good to help protect against that Back to the video, okay Vitamin C does so much more than that you guys it also helps with collagen production and it helps to inhibit tyrosinase which as you guys know is the big one for me, which means that it’s helping to inhibit that misfire of melanin that cascading effect that can cause Over pigmentation hyperpigmentation melasma that kind of thing it can also help with something called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation Which is the pigment that is left behind the overabundance of pigment that’s left behind after for example You have a pimple and it leaves behind what looks like a scar for a while That’s just really excess red or brown pigment Those things are called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation if it’s brown post inflammatory erythema If it’s red and vitamin C can help with both of those as well So the typical vitamin C that we have on the market is called a sorbic acid it’s what everybody looks for or Ellen sorbic acid and typically what you will find as you will find a sorbic acid is comes in conjunction with a couple other Vitamins and it’s usually vitamin E and it also is often now put with something called furu liqu acid Froelich acid is a Fida chemical that is found. It’s plant derived, but it is thought to be much much much more powerful Antioxidant than either vitamin E or vitamin C But when it’s put together with vitamin C. It’s not – really really boost the efficacy of vitamin C It’s it makes vitamin E and vitamin C much more powerful. So it’s a great cocktail to put your seat and your fruit together Okay, so that’s all great, right? I mean why what could be wrong with any of that? The downside of a sorbic acid is that it is not stable. It is not stable at all Not only is it not stable in the product packaging depending on the packaging? But it’s also not as stable actually on your skin so you kind of are left wondering I think with a lot of these products that claim to have a servic acid you’re wondering how Efficacious they really even are I mean after you’ve had it for a month it does it still even work I mean and that’s a legitimate question to have So because of that, you know, there’s that question, but also it can be extremely Irritating especially as the percentages tick up and unfortunately, it’s typically more efficacious to do all of the things I just listed Usually are best seen at a higher percentage of vitamin C higher percentage of vitamin C can be very irritating it caused you to be inflamed red even though vitamin C is said to be anti-inflammatory if you are sensitive or you have rosacea, it can really knock you for a loop and I Would recommend to other people to use vitamin C with caution But I didn’t want to touch vitamin C because with melasma or pigment problems The last thing you want to do is also be perpetually red, right? okay, so enter in other forms of vitamin C or Derivatives of vitamin C or precursors to a servic acid and I’m going to talk to you about two of them today They don’t have a lot of those problems that a sorbic acid has. So the first one we’re going to talk about It’s called tetrahedral deckle a sorbet. It’s a mouthful and sometimes we’ll see it referred to as THD a sorbate This is an oil soluble version of or precursor to vitamin C So acerbic acid is actually water soluble. It’s hydrophilic it loves water That’s great and all except for what that means is it can’t penetrate in through our lipid barrier very well So it typically sits in our upper layers of our skin in our stratum corneum And that kind of thing does a really good job there It’s not a bad thing that it’s there, but a lot of the anti-aging processes that we’re trying to you know Get to their deeper in our skin They’re in our dermis and it’s very difficult for L sorbic acid to penetrate because it’s water soluble It cannot get past our lipid barrier So it sits on our external our outer skin and does all of that really good Defense against free radicals. It’s good for that It’s wonderful, but it is not penetrating in and because it sits on the surface also and it’s irritating it can be even more irritating because it’s sitting on the surface of your skin or hexyl deckle a sorbate is Able to penetrate past that lipid barrier because it is a soluble Version of or precursor to a sorbic acid now it does require an Enzyme in our skin to convert it into a servic acid in order for it to do a lot of the good things the cool thing is it’s able to penetrate in further into your skin and then The conversion and then does all those wonderful things that a sorbic acid Can’t get to that makes sense Acerbic acid is also an exfoliant and it definitely does some light exfoliant to your skin, which can be irritating Tetra hexyl deckle a sorbate is not an exfoliant It doesn’t sit at the same pH and it does not exfoliate your skin. It is not irritating at all So it penetrates better. It’s more efficacious and it’s not irritating And the last thing that THD is is stable it actually can have a shelf life of over a year and It is just not as sensitive to oxygen and light I still would recommend Good packaging opaque packaging and airtight packaging and I still would recommend not leaving it out You know to sit in the Sun for sure But it is a much much more stable both in the packaging and on your skin Now the second one that I wanted to talk to you about is sodium a Sorbo phosphate now. This is a salt precursor to a Sorbic acid and why that is super cool is number one. It is extremely stable as well And number two it is not irritating at all but that salt component of that precursor of a sorbic acid actually helps that ingredient penetrate our lipid barrier while it’s not oil soluble the salt helps it it’s the doorman kind of like I was talking you about a Few videos back the salt is the doorman to getting that amazing antioxidant through our lipid barrier To the dermis where we have you know our anti-aging processes where we can affect collagen where we can do some of those really good things that tyrosinase inhibiting and Help prevent over production of melanin. Okay. So where are these products? well I’m going to tell you about three products that I have found that have these various ingredients and we’re going to start with the Luma Pro C. This is from hydro peptide. Now. This one is one hundred and forty eight dollars It’s very expensive. The first or second ingredient in here is resveratrol and resveratrol is another amazing antioxidant That’s found in the skin of red grapes and just a really really stellar ingredient all by itself Then this also has the tetra hex old echo a sorbet My only issue with this one you guys is that they don’t list the percentages and while the ingredients do lie in the upper the very upper portion of the ingredient deck I Like to know exactly how much of each active is in the products I will tell you that this is extremely cosmetically elegant and it feels fantastic under makeup I’m really really enjoying this in the morning and it almost feels a super lightweight moisturizer now the other one that also has the THD and that I’m most impressed with is the Potency and this is by Peter Thomas Roth. Now this one actually lists the actives it has 20% THD a sorbate it has 3% vitamin E and it has 2% for alloc acid, which is really really great percentages of all three of those actives and Here’s the deal. This one comes in an airtight pump as well and Obviously, it’s an opaque packaging. It is one fluid ounce you really only need about a pump and This one is $95 the last thing one that I want to talk to you about with these precursors to vitamin C is Actually by it’s actually by mad. Hippy and this one is again. This is the sodium Sorbo phosphate now This is a very stable precursor to vitamin C and the reason why I love this so much is this is perfect for during the day you put this on and is Extremely it just sinks in your skin. I wouldn’t go so far as to call it matte, but it’s damn close to matte No gracing us whatsoever. So I think a lot of people would enjoy this very much under the makeup because it almost goes away It’s like it’s not even there the other thing about this one. That is so cool again is that it uses that salt to enter in through the lipid barrier it is so extremely stable and so non-irritating zero irritation whatsoever And I think that that’s fantastic because you really want a constant dose of these antioxidants and if they sensitize you you’re not likely to do that, you’re likely to quit or use it very infrequently and Won’t get the benefit as you should if you used it every single day the other thing that’s pretty cool about this mad Hippy one is a the price point is really really reasonable This one is one fluid ounce and it’s around thirty dollars depending on where you buy it I actually picked mine up at Whole Foods, but you can get it different retailers online What is super cool about this one is it is really good for acne and the reason why is it helps prevent sebum oxidation like up to 40% and That is kind of one of those things. That is really important in the development of acne lesions So this one could be really beneficial for not only helping to prevent acne. But also helping with that post inflammatory hyperpigmentation That happens after a pimple goes away and leaves you with that dating pigment We kind of doing a deep dive into the vitamin C to see how much it can change the pigment in my skin And so far what I’ve noticed is an overall brightening of my skin I’m not gonna say that my melasma it has gone away or anything like that But I am noticing an overall kind of glutton hoping that this was helpful in some way I’m definitely going this is the beginning of a series on vitamin C and Actives we’re gonna talk all about what can be mixed with what when you should use whatever Takeaway from this though. You guys is vitamin C can be used both morning and night and Really just take into consideration The other actives that you’re using vitamin C penetrates the best at a very low pH so I find it to be fantastic Used alongside some other acids. You just have to really watch for irritation and contrary to popular belief Vitamin C is fantastic when it’s used with a retinoid Asst so that that’ll be another video as well This is just a stellar stellar antioxidant, and I hope that you’ll incorporate it into your skincare because I think like me you will find it really does your skin some Good, so I hope you guys found this helpful, and I thank you so much for watching and I’ll talk to you again Very very soon